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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.